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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.